Henna, Indigo and Hair Herbs in Bulk: A Supplier Guide for Brands

Plant-based hair colour and herbal haircare have a loyal following in the USA, UK, Europe and the Middle East. Henna, indigo, amla, bhringraj and soapnut are the backbone of that category, and most of the world's supply comes from India. If you're a natural haircare brand, salon supplier or private label seller, here's what to check before you buy these herbs in bulk.

Henna: what decides quality

Henna is the dried, powdered leaf of Lawsonia inermis. Its orange-red colour comes from lawsone, which binds to the keratin in hair. Lawsone content varies with crop, region, harvest and storage, so two henna powders can give quite different results. When comparing suppliers, look at:

• Crop freshness: lawsone degrades over time, especially in heat and light. Ask for the crop year and store henna sealed and cool.
• Fineness: finely sifted powder mixes smoothly and rinses out easily. Coarse powder with stems is cheaper but harder to use.
• Sand and ash: acid-insoluble ash shows how much sand and soil is present, a common way to cut cost.
• Purity: no added dyes, metallic salts or PPD. "Natural" henna that dyes black on its own isn't pure henna.
• Dye test: a simple strand test on white hair or wool is the best practical check on colour release.

Indigo and other hair herbs

Indigo leaf powder loses strength faster than henna once exposed to air and moisture, so packaging and stock rotation matter. For amla, bhringraj and neem, ask for the same basics as any herb powder: identity, microbiology, heavy metals and mesh size. Our bulk herb powder guide covers these in detail.

Rules in the USA and EU

• USA: FDA treats henna as a colour additive approved only for colouring hair. It isn't approved for direct application to skin, as in mehndi. "Black henna" often contains p-phenylenediamine (PPD), which can cause serious skin reactions and isn't permitted in cosmetics applied to skin. Hair colour products also fall under MoCRA requirements such as facility registration and product listing.
• EU: hair dye ingredients are reviewed for safety by the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, and the rules for henna in hair dyes are set in the Cosmetics Regulation. Check the current CosIng entry and the conditions that apply to your product type.
• Claims: keep claims cosmetic, such as colour, shine or conditioning. Claims to treat hair loss or scalp disease can turn a product into a medicine.

Supplier checklist

• Botanical name, plant part, crop year and mesh size for each herb
• PPD-free test result and statement of no added dyes or metallic salts
• Heavy metals, microbiology and acid-insoluble ash results
• INCI names and safety data for your cosmetic file
• Sealed, lined packaging and recommended storage conditions
• Samples from the production lot for a colour test

For more on cosmetic documents, see our guide to botanical extracts for cosmetics.

Good henna sells itself in the first strand test. Make sure the paperwork is as clean as the colour.

Hair-care herbs from Arizone

Arizone International LLP supplies herb powders, extracts and oils for haircare to brands and distributors outside India, in bulk or for private labeling. Tell us the shade, format and market you're developing for, and we'll send specifications and samples. Every batch ships with a certificate of analysis.

Sources: US FDA: henna and "black henna" fact sheet; European Commission: CosIng database.